Weekend in Korat - Saturday

I met David in the TEFL course. We were the oldest ones, and seemed often to commiserate on the vagaries of sitting in a classroom with young adults barely out of their teens, taking notes on copious material of dubious use and submitting to being tested on it. I experienced this when I was around David's age 20 years ago as I put myself through the ordeal of 7 straight years of full-time degree work in music, always being the oldest one in my class, and watching many of those kids grow from teenagers to adulthood with all the angst and drama of youth in college that you'd expect. This was only a 6 week taste of that sort of thing, but often left David almost pulling his hair out. I'm grateful of our shared experience, for it quickly made us friends.

Here's a bunch of pics taken mostly the first day. As always, you can click on them for a closer look.

David and Tung, on a walk across her family farm near Ratchasima.

Tung is David's Thai partner, expert at Thai massage and presently studying how to cut hair somewhere down near Chatuchak park while David was in the course. She was offering massage here at the hotel which was great and convenient for me, but we all got busy with getting things done and I haven't been able to schedule a session lately. Some long standing problems with my shoulder have melted away, not sure exactly due to what but I am really getting to be a believer in this sometimes painful but usually therapeutic treatment.

The course finished up Thursday afternoon so I was useless the rest of that day, and Friday was spent recovering. It was to be a long holiday weekend due to Chulalongkorn Day (aka Rama V Day) on Tuesday, October 23, so David and Tung made plans to go visit her farm in Korat. I wanted a change of pace so I asked to tag along, eager for the chance to hang out with a Thai family and see rural life in Thailand first hand. They graciously agreed, so we made plans to catch a bus from the Chatuchak bus terminal on Saturday morning arriving 4 hours later in the closest city, Nakhon Ratchasima. From there we got on a truck Tung hired to get us the rest of the way to her home. I don't know how we got to her family farm after disembarking the bus, and I'm sure I would never be able to get there again on my own. It's located somewhere just west of the village of Nong Manao. Mueng Kong is in the area too.

We caught a taxi from our home to the Chatuchak Bus Depot, near the
Mochit BTS Station. Here sitting and waiting for Tung to
get us our bus fares. Mine cost 220 baht, about US $7.00

After we got the fare it's outside to where
the buses pull in to wait for ours to arrive.

David and Tung sorting out snacks, luggage, etc.

These are quite like hot dogs, but much more delicious.
Very plump, gooey with fat.

I have no idea what Tung has here, but she's obviously very happy about
these...meat balls. I suspect it's some kind of pork something-or-other,
marinated and grilled. I'll have to try them myself soon,
I see them at many of the food carts.

Settled in and ready to go. The bus is pretty comfortable,
and while the air-conditioning is not icy cold, it cools things down
well enough. I napped most of the way there.

Ratchasima is the largest town in the area, and that's where the bus stopped. Tung uses a man to cart her and her things around, and it took only a few minutes after we got off the bus before he found us, collected our belongings and took us to the Siam Makro Cash & Carry, very much like the largest Walmart or Sam's Club or Costco you've ever seen. I'll have to find one here in Bangkok as I've had quite enough of trying to navigate the thousands of small shops in half a dozen various malls and markets. I'm ready to go one place that has it all. The prices were pretty good too.

Pulling in to Ratchasima City bus station

Tung has a man she uses to cart her and her things to and from the farm.
Here we are packing it all up and squeezing into the little pickup to go to the
Makro for supplies, and then the hour long ride to her country home.

It turned out to be quite a shopping spree, bagging a king-size mattress, hot water heater, lots of food, 3 cases of Leo beer, many and various household items. You can get it all at Siam Makro Cash & Carry!

I lost track of how much food we got

We didn't buy pumpkins, but had to include this pic of them.
I've never seen pumpkins like this. Later in the week I saw them at the
Tesco and one was cut open, it looked more like squash.

Yours truly after we bought the king-size mattress,
sold from a tent in the parking lot, tied down on top of everything else
we got plus luggage, in the Macro parking lot, and about ready to hit the road.

Poor David and Tung were shoehorned in the back king-cab area of this little truck, and I had the passenger seat with my knees up near my ears. Driving out of town the scenery looked like pretty typical farm land you might see in the US, same kinds of trucks stops and water towers...well, enough of a difference to make you think you are in the Twight Zone.


Pretty scenery, lots of open spaces
                                        
I got out my ukulele and tried to liven things
up, but it was a little too cramped. Our driver
put on some Thai pop music that made my ears bleed.

Everyone talks about how many
Starbucks there are here.
I see far more 7-11's
These monuments to the royalty are at
the entrances to most towns
This is what I meant by Twilight Zone, like an alternate
reality, with most of the things you're familiar with,
just...different

This very nice house is obviously the
home of a well-to-do westerner

Finally reach a small town
Pretty sleepy around here

Pretty country
This in front of a small market where we
stopped for some food. I think this was
shading the driver as he napped.
 
This looked like a great way to cook pork,
will have to try it some time. Yes, it was
as delicious as it looks.


As things got progressively more rural, I saw odd, colorful farm trucks with loud, single-cylinder engines. They are discussed a bit in this sub-forum post at the ever useful site ThaiVisa. Though they were all over the place I never could catch one standing still. They are powered by watercooled single-cylinder diesel thumpers, and they are really LOUD. This pic is clear enough to make out the name, the Kubota RT series of engines.

I've always been annoyed that my camera has about a one second delay from the time of
pressingthe shutter button to when it actually takes the picture. I've about learned how
to time it to where it sometimes gets a fast moving pic in the frame. This was taken
out the front window of the truck we rode in, barely catching this farm truck as it drove by.

These engines just didn't look very big, and when I did a little research on them this morning, I honestly had to read it twice. These little trucks are built to carry a full contingent of farm workers and tons, that's right, tons of cargo. The engine you see in that truck right there is the Kubota RT 140, and it is all of FOURTEEN HORSEPOWER. Apparently many of them use no more than 10 HP versions. How can that be? We in the western world are steeped in easy and cheap power, little cars with hundreds of horsepower to enhance "the driving experience". Even my neighbor's leaf blower back in Vancouver, Washington (which he uses incessantly to keep his house and grounds free from any speck of dirt) is probably about 1/10 the rated horsepower of the engine in that farm truck. It is quite incredible to me. A little looking around on the web found this website with some info on them, they're called Etan trucks. Also very happy to find this youtube video of one driving through Thai farmland. The author mentions they won't be around much longer. Don't know where he get's that information, I saw (and heard) dozens of them the several days I was there. If true, that's a pity--though I can't see such an economical arrangement replaced by anything better at the present time. I'd happily drive to work in one every day, parking alongside my friends' Hondas and Isuzus, and giving something for the Hummer owner to point and laugh at.

Uh oh. Roosters. This doesn't look good

The last stretch, almost there

Pulling into the driveway and stretching our legs.
I think the drive was more than an hour.

Glad to be out of that little truck. Tung seems happy too.

Beer Leo. Not bad stuff. 

The girls dig into the ice cream we brought

It's gone in no time
The final 2 or 3 kilometers was along a very rough dirt road. I've noticed how much of the dirt around here is red, a lot like Oklahoma. We got out of that truck in a hurry, and quickly unloaded the cargo, got the beer cooling, stood the mattress up near the staircase, made introductions when the neighbors came around. There were 5 girls who were always together, tallest one is Pu, Tung's 11 year old daughter. The smallest ones are twins, and you always see these girls together. David broke out a carton of ice cream and they all descended on it, gone pretty quick.

Papa didn't come home from work until later, but I thought I'd better
post a pic of him now. He is one year younger than me, and I sure
wish I had his abs. He doesn't say much. He wai'd me pretty
deep the first time we met, I guess because my hair is so grey.
Here's Mama. She really took a shine to me for some reason,
really made my stay a wonderful experience. I can't believe I
didn't get a better pic of her than this. 

Here's a look around the house. I'm not a good judge of area, but the area the house and out buildings sit on seem to be approximately the same area as the floor I live on in this hotel, about 4,000 square feet. The rice paddies and fields are a short walk away.

In the front of the house there are three low platforms made
 of hardwood. One of them has a floor made
of bamboo strips and is pretty springy.

I had a ton of bamboo back at home I never knew what to do
with. I just knew you could make something really neat with it.

A view of the back of the house from over by the cow shed
Stepping out the back door and looking into the kitchen area
They keep 3 Brahma cows, for meat I guess.
David said they don't milk them.


Turning around with the cow shed to my back you
see this building, used to store the rice harvest.
That's a new cart David bought for Papa. Before, he
would just cut grass for the cows and carry it
home on his back.
Brand new outhouse with kitchen wash up area. David told
me he bought the materials on the last visit and Papa built it.
This trip he brought a water heater. Once it was installed
the next day we had hot showers. 
To the side of the new outhouse there were these large
earthenware  jars used to store rainwater collected
off the roof. I drank rainwater the entire time I was there.
A view past one of the buildings into a neighboring lot,
and path that winds it's way off there.
Another look between a couple of the outbuildings, to the
farm lands in the distance.
This is one of two adjoining ground floor rooms. We have
stacked things just inside the doorway. 
I honestly have no idea how the hell we are going to get that
king-size mattress up that stair case. 
Nope, no way is that going up there. 
Here's a couple views of the second room


And the upstairs





So we got relaxed and had a bite to eat. I did most of the eating.

These are what Mama uses to barbeque things on


I should have found out what these herbs were

Three fish, Tung calls, pla yang. We got at the Siam Makro Cash & Carry

Slits made in them and salt, fish sauce and who knows what
else worked in there and left to marinate for a while.

Mama cut a couple banana leaves off a tree and
wrapped the fish in it

I guess it keeps things moist, adds some flavor and holds
things together so they don't fall through the grate


My god these are looking good


Some of the items in Mama's pantry. That's about half
gallon of sliced ginger there front and center. I got
sent home with a bit of that.

I kind of like that little spool for a handle

Hold me back

Kuhn Kob, the human vacuum cleaner.
There was not much left of those pretty little
pink fish when I was done.
I never had fish that tasted this good.




I didn't think it would go, but I was wrong. Who knew you could fold a king size mattress in half? Not me. I didn't get to sleep on it, some of those who were pushing and pulling did. 

Afterwards we retired to the front porch for some pickin' and grinnin'. The neighbors all stopped by to see the farang and his ukulele serenade every woman within arm's reach. 






I got sleepy early, but not sure what time it was when I turned in. I slept upstairs in a 
mosquito net. They provided me with a fan too, but it was actually too cool with it on. It is a different feeling out here than Bangkok. The breezes are cool, and I can sleep without air or fan. I had to get up to visit the toilet during the night, and it was an adventure finding my way in the dark. My little phone has a torch light, probably saved me from going headfirst down the stairs. 

I slept up here. You can see the net attached to the walls. 

Here's what I woke up to the next morning.

It's like a little house. Pretty fun. I had the mattresses
and several pillows in there, it was very comfortable.
This was a good night's sleep and awakening to sunlight streaming through the space between the wall and ceiling. It's all open air. 

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Sorry it's taken me so long to update this post, I've been very busy and more than a little worried after returning home, beginning a job search, settling into a new job, learning the ropes of the bus system and visa process, etc. It's Nov. 25 already, my visa expires today and I must travel to Laos to get another one. Jumping ahead here, I'll get on to the second day now of this long, long post about Korat that happened several weeks ago.