For some reason I have been waking up about 4 or 5 AM while I've been here, and it's not because of roosters. I come downstairs and the desk staff are sacked out on the couchs. If there is internet I try to make a post. If not, go for a walk and watch the sun come up. This morning it was sort of windy. People are bundled up a little, it must be cold for them but it's in the 70's I think, really very pleasant for me. There is only a comforter on the bed in my hotel room and I have to keep the room freezing to avoid burning up under it. I managed to resolve this problem only after several bouts with the staff. I finally communicated to them I wanted only a flat sheet to replace the comforter, but they thought at first I wanted to replace the fitted sheet with a flat sheet, and I walked in on them in the middle of trying to do military corners with the flat sheet, having replaced the fitted sheet with it. I explained to them to please put the fitted sheet back on, put the comforter away, and place the flat sheet in my hands. Please, place it right here in my hands. That's right. OK, thankyou, now please go. Thankyou very much! They were reluctant to the very end to complete such odd requests.
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Phnom Penh at dawn. The tall building middle of the
block on the right is where I stayed, the Silver River Hotel. |
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| Diamond Island North Bridge |
I was awakened by two loud knocks at my door this morning at 5:30, but I probably dreamed it because I had earplugs in. Why would my brain play such tricks on me? My mother's Apache acquaintance says this is death knocking. I got up and tried the internet, but it was down. Took a walk around outside to see the day begin. The wind had blown around trash, which was being swept away by workers. Businesses began to unshutter at 6 AM, and a few very annoying dogs were barking. Tuk tuk drivers were more understanding this morning when I told them I did not want a ride at this time. When I made it back to the hotel, coffee was ready and the internet was up. The desk staff thinks it's a problem with the company. I was unable to make a post yesterday.
I contacted my friend's relative, Dr. Ngor Botumchan, a medical doctor who no longer practices, but works with NGO's. The one he is currently involved with is called Christian World Adoption. I thought the Cambodian government had ended child adoptions, but I suppose it's changing. So my new friend Chan picked me up in his Toyota this morning and proceeded to give me the VIP tour of Phnom Penh. I'm not sure where we went at first, around town a bit where he pointed out various landmarks such as the Russian Embassy, the museum, new construction owned by the Prime Minister, and some very interesting and unusual bridges such as the Diamond Island North Bridge, scene of a
tragic stampede last year.
He asked me if I was up for a visit to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, and I said yes. This site was once a school, and was converted to a torture and killing center during the Khmer Rouge rule (1975-1979). They have restored and preserved much of the evidence for posterity. I include a few of the less grisly pictures.
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| Stairway to the upper floors |
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| This is readable, but you have to click on the image and then zoom way in |
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| Doors knocked through walls |
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| Crudely made individual cells |
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| Chan remembering the relatives he lost |
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| People were hung from this rack, and dunked in the pots |
After spending about 90 minutes touring the grounds, we headed to the big museum. It was interesting, but we did not spend a long time there. There were many statues and artifacts from the Khmer regime of centuries ago. Photography inside the building was prohibited, so I include only one of Chan and I outside.
We took a break for lunch, and then went to the Royal Palace. This rivaled the Grand Palace of Bangkok in splendor. One of the larger buildings had a floor that was covered in 12"x12" (approximate) solid silver tiles each weighing one kilogram. The floor is about the size of half a football field. That's a lot of silver!
By the end of that I was really tuckered out, and went back to the hotel to clean up and lie down for a while. I stopped by the restaurant and had a couple of cold beers while having a long chat with Pentsay (Say for short) the food and beverage manager. He proved quite a conversationalist with his limited English. He told me he had no schooling in English, but simply tried to learn on his own. He's had this job for a month and a half. We discussed many things, such as the state of the economy and where Cambodia is heading; regime changes in other parts of the world and how that is highly unlikely here; his love of football, his very stressful work schedule and the lives of his large family; how grateful his is for all foreigners to come to his country and spend their time; his hopes and dreams for the future. It was all very humbling.
I went up to the room and had a little snooze for some time, when Giuseppe called me and asked if I wanted to go out to
Frizz on the river front, a restaurant he read about in his guide book. I thought it was the Mekong River, but somebody told me it's not. I shook off the cobwebs, and we were off. We had to wait about 15 min. because it was so popular. When we were seated and ready to order we were disappointed to find the dish they were famous for was sold out. But between the three of us we had all kinds of delicious food, fish and chicken in curry sauces, sweet and sour chicken, Lao beer. It was delicious with good service. I should have taken pics--I like to photograph my food as you'll see later. I ordered a "Happy Herb Pizza" to go from the place two doors down....it had a certain interesting quality to it. I love pizza for breakfast. Then we hopped in a tuk tuk and went back to the hotel to drop me off, and the two lovebirds were off for a romantic riverside walk.
It's 8:30 AM next morning, and as I type on the hotel lobby computer Danielle sneaks up on me and said she and Giuseppe were off to Siem Reab and would see me this evening. It's rather amazing how our paths have paralleled for some time now....met while waiting to board, they ended up sitting next to me, shared a taxi to their hotel where I ended up staying, and now we are all spending about the same time in Siem Reab. My bus will leave at 10:30 AM, and will take an hour longer than theirs, but I'll get there at about 4:30 PM and find a guest house to stay in. A "guest house" is supposedly different from a hotel, but I'm not sure how really--they look like small hotels, except they might be family run or something. And always quite a bit cheaper. My friend told me he stayed at Angkorland Hotel several years ago, and directly across the street was a very nice guest house, so I will try that first. If I don't like it, then will try another. It's always the bed I check. Too hard, and I go look at some more places (why are hotel beds so hard here??). When I arrive this evening, I'll send my new buddies a text and we'll hook up for dinner again. It's a rare and special treat to have such charming travel companions.
My butt is getting tired of sitting here typing, so I'll go up and pack, let someone else use this machine. Have a few more cups of coffee. If I can find a connection when I'm up there this evening perhaps I'll add to this post.
By the end of that I was really tuckered out, and went back to the hotel to clean up and lie down for a while. I stopped by the restaurant and had a couple of cold beers while having a long chat with Pentsay (Say for short) the food and beverage manager. He proved quite a conversationalist with his limited English. He told me he had no schooling in English, but simply tried to learn on his own. He's had this job for a month and a half. We discussed many things, such as the state of the economy and where Cambodia is heading; regime changes in other parts of the world and how that is highly unlikely here; his love of football, his very stressful work schedule and the lives of his large family; how grateful his is for all foreigners to come to his country and spend their time; his hopes and dreams for the future. It was all very humbling.
