Showing posts with label Phnom Penh. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Phnom Penh. Show all posts

3. Phnom Penh

For some reason I have been waking up about 4 or 5 AM while I've been here, and it's not because of roosters. I come downstairs and the desk staff are sacked out on the couchs. If there is internet I try to make a post. If not, go for a walk and watch the sun come up. This morning it was sort of windy. People are bundled up a little, it must be cold for them but it's in the 70's I think, really very pleasant for me. There is only a comforter on the bed in my hotel room and I have to keep the room freezing to avoid burning up under it. I managed to resolve this problem only after several bouts with the staff. I finally communicated to them I wanted only a flat sheet to replace the comforter, but they thought at first I wanted to replace the fitted sheet with a flat sheet, and I walked in on them in the middle of trying to do military corners with the flat sheet, having replaced the fitted sheet with it. I explained to them to please put the fitted sheet back on, put the comforter away, and place the flat sheet in my hands. Please, place it right here in my hands. That's right. OK, thankyou, now please go. Thankyou very much! They were reluctant to the very end to complete such odd requests.
Phnom Penh at dawn. The tall building middle of the
block on the right is where I stayed, the Silver River Hotel. 
Diamond Island North Bridge
I was awakened by two loud knocks at my door this morning at 5:30, but I probably dreamed it because I had earplugs in. Why would my brain play such tricks on me? My mother's Apache acquaintance says this is death knocking. I got up and tried the internet, but it was down. Took a walk around outside to see the day begin. The wind had blown around trash, which was being swept away by workers. Businesses began to unshutter at 6 AM, and a few very annoying dogs were barking. Tuk tuk drivers were more understanding this morning when I told them I did not want a ride at this time. When I made it back to the hotel, coffee was ready and the internet was up. The desk staff thinks it's a problem with the company. I was unable to make a post yesterday.

I contacted my friend's relative, Dr. Ngor Botumchan, a medical doctor who no longer practices, but works with NGO's. The one he is currently involved with is called Christian World Adoption. I thought the Cambodian government had ended child adoptions, but I suppose it's changing. So my new friend Chan picked me up in his Toyota this morning and proceeded to give me the VIP tour of Phnom Penh. I'm not sure where we went at first, around town a bit where he pointed out various landmarks such as the Russian Embassy, the museum, new construction owned by the Prime Minister, and some very interesting and unusual bridges such as the Diamond Island North Bridge, scene of a tragic stampede last year.

He asked me if I was up for a visit to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, and I said yes. This site was once a school, and was converted to a torture and killing center during the Khmer Rouge rule (1975-1979). They have restored and preserved much of the evidence for posterity. I include a few of the less grisly pictures.

Stairway to the upper floors

This is readable, but you have to click on the image and then zoom way in



Doors knocked through walls

Crudely made individual cells



Chan remembering the relatives he lost




People were hung from this rack, and dunked in the pots

After spending about 90 minutes touring the grounds, we headed to the big museum. It was interesting, but we did not spend a long time there. There were many statues and artifacts from the Khmer regime of centuries ago. Photography inside the building was prohibited, so I include only one of Chan and I outside.



We took a break for lunch, and then went to the Royal Palace. This rivaled the Grand Palace of Bangkok in splendor. One of the larger buildings had a floor that was covered in 12"x12" (approximate) solid silver tiles each weighing one kilogram. The floor is about the size of half a football field. That's a lot of silver!







By the end of that I was really tuckered out, and went back to the hotel to clean up and lie down for a while.  I stopped by the restaurant and had a couple of cold beers while having a long chat with Pentsay (Say for short) the food and beverage manager. He proved quite a conversationalist with his limited English. He told me he had no schooling in English, but simply tried to learn on his own. He's had this job for a month and a half. We discussed many things, such as the state of the economy and where Cambodia is heading; regime changes in other parts of the world and how that is highly unlikely here; his love of football, his very stressful work schedule and the lives of his large family; how grateful his is for all foreigners to come to his country and spend their time; his hopes and dreams for the future. It was all very humbling.


I went up to the room and had a little snooze for some time, when Giuseppe called me and asked if I wanted to go out to Frizz on the river front, a restaurant he read about in his guide book. I thought it was the Mekong River, but somebody told me it's not. I shook off the cobwebs, and we were off. We had to wait about 15 min. because it was so popular. When we were seated and ready to order we were disappointed to find the dish they were famous for was sold out. But between the three of us we had all kinds of delicious food, fish and chicken in curry sauces, sweet and sour chicken, Lao beer. It was delicious with good service.  I should have taken pics--I like to photograph my food as you'll see later. I ordered a "Happy Herb Pizza" to go from the place two doors down....it had a certain interesting quality to it. I love pizza for breakfast. Then we hopped in a tuk tuk and went back to the hotel to drop me off, and the two lovebirds were off for a romantic riverside walk.

It's 8:30 AM next morning, and as I type on the hotel lobby computer Danielle sneaks up on me and said she and Giuseppe were off to Siem Reab and would see me this evening. It's rather amazing how our paths have paralleled for some time now....met while waiting to board, they ended up sitting next to me, shared a taxi to their hotel where I ended up staying, and now we are all spending about the same time in Siem Reab. My bus will leave at 10:30 AM, and will take an hour longer than theirs, but I'll get there at about 4:30 PM and find a guest house to stay in. A "guest house" is supposedly different from a hotel, but I'm not sure how really--they look like small hotels, except they might be family run or something. And always quite a bit cheaper. My friend told me he stayed at Angkorland Hotel several years ago, and directly across the street was a very nice guest house, so I will try that first. If I don't like it, then will try another. It's always the bed I check. Too hard, and I go look at some more places (why are hotel beds so hard here??). When I arrive this evening, I'll send my new buddies a text and we'll hook up for dinner again. It's a rare and special treat to have such charming travel companions.

My butt is getting tired of sitting here typing, so I'll go up and pack, let someone else use this machine. Have a few more cups of coffee. If I can find a connection when I'm up there this evening perhaps I'll add to this post.

2. Bangkok to Phnom Penh

I think it's Thursday. I woke up about 4:00 AM this morning disoriented and feeling out of place. Tried to go back to sleep, but could not. I find the beds in most of these hotels hard as a rock. However, the first hotel I stayed in had a very nice soft, yet firm, bed so I will probably go back to that one. Sacha's Uno is the name, and I recommend it. The other hotel I stayed at was Boss Suites. It's an odd name, but it bolstered my self-confidence. It was not my intention to split up the week like this, it was the result of me rescheduling. I initially scheduled this trip during October and November when the floods were bad, so I cancelled. One of the hotels did not allow me to cancel but they did allow me to reschedule, and that was Boss Suites. I suppose I could have stayed the entire week with them, but I wanted to try Sascha's Uno. I'm glad I did, they are a little better than Boss Suites in almost every way.

I got up and went out for a long walk this morning. I'm tired of walking up and down this Soi. I have not been able to feel very comfortable in this huge city, probably because I don't know anyone. I was missing my usual four shots of espresso so, after having the American breakfast here in the hotel for about $4, I set out looking for a place that could make it for me. Not many places around here except Starbucks do it. I found a hotel down the street and though they were appalled that anyone would want four shots in one cup with no cream or sugar, they made it for me. I almost choked at the price. Things are not so cheap here in Bangkok. As I was savoring the most expensive cup of coffee I ever had in my life, I watched the street in front of the hotel and was struck by the various sorts of regular bicycles I saw. I include a few pics of them here.

The $9 cup of coffee



They are exactly the kind of city commuter bicycle I tried and tried to find back home. Nobody seems to make these things, or at least no one is interested in importing them at a decent price. There is nothing sporty about them except the paint, and that's what U.S. bicycles are all about, sport. I bet you can get one of these babies for $200 or less. You can special order an Amsterdam bike, handmade, for $1,800 to $3,000--nothing special, just a high quality, step-through, urban commuter in the delivery bike genre. Except it has to be hand made. Something is wrong there...


I wimped out on the "adventurous" route to Cambodia, and so last night purchased airfare to Phnom Penh for about $150 one way. It's the half-adventurous route...couple rungs down the ladder from the O'smach crossing near the skirmishes. My friend's cousin will meet me and show me around, I'm very grateful for that. In addition, I'll probably try to find a young Korean man who's name I cannot remember...maybe it was Hun. He sat next to me on the trip from Narita to BKK, a member of YWAM (Youth With A Mission). In case you didn't know, South Korea is mostly Christian. He said he was Methodist, and mentioned that he will be in PP at the same time as me, so I will try to duck my head in the YWAM headquarters and ask for him if I see the place.

Yesterday the weather was cloudy and a little oppressive. As I write this at about 8:00 AM it seems as if the skies will be clear today. The weather is really not hot at all, it feels like about 78 most of the time, and at the hot part of the day maybe the mid-80's. The flight I booked leaves BKK about 3:00 PM, and arrives PP about 4:30 PM, so I'll have plenty of time to find a hotel before it gets dark.

I've made several excursions out and about on both the Sky Train and the subway. Both are very cheap and quick, but can be very crowded during rush hour.



This was very scary to me
The Sky Train stations are monstrous elevated concrete structures, and walking about on them was very frightening to me, as the walkways had only handrails, and it was really high! Seemed like a 100' drop. My knees get shaky just thinking about it now. In that last pic right above there, I was just imagining bumping into a commuter in a hurry and going headfirst over that railing.

The I arrived next day at the Bangkok airport around 1:00 PM. I passed the time while waiting for my flight to Cambodia having lunch with a very interesting and entertaining Bangkok lady I met last week. The flight to Phnom Penh was good and quick. I like Air Asia.


Jeab and Clay having lunch at the airport
I met a newlywed Italian/Romanian couple on the flight, simply by turning around and saying hello. This is one leg of their honeymoon vacation and they are here for two nights same as me. I met them in line while boarding the plane, and what do you know they sat next to me also. I had a fun conversation with Giuseppe and Daniella, and when we arrived we shared a taxi into town with a very entertaining taxi driver. I ended up choosing their hotel, the Silver River. The flight to Phnom Penh short, and it became clear during the ride to the hotel that I was going to like this town better than Bangkok...not sure what it is....streets wider, see more of the sky or something. When we arrived at the hotel and I got out of the air-conditioned taxi, it was so humid my glasses fogged up. More tomorrow.